henna Safety
Did you know that not all henna is created equally? We make our own henna paste for ours and our clients’ safety. Read below for more information on the benefits of using fresh henna made from the henna plant.
Henna is a plant that grows in dry, arid regions of the globe and produces a dye molecule that binds with hair, skin, and nails leaving an orange to reddish brown stain. Henna leaves are ground into a fine powder and mixed with a few simple ingredients to make a paste. This paste is put in a small piping bag is performed similarly to cake decorating. Designs are drawn on skin and the paste STAINS the skin. The henna dye molecule binds to skin (hair and nails too) and becomes part of the skin. It actually makes the cells it binds with STRONGER.
Henna paste can be from light to dark brown depending on where the henna was grown. The paste on skin may look black-ish, but it’s really dark brown. The stain the henna leaves behind will be the true test of whether it’s authentic henna or not.
The henna stain will ALWAYS be anywhere from a light orange to a very dark reddish brown, depending on thickness of skin, how long paste is left on, aftercare regimen, and unique skin chemistry.
Did you know that true henna is never black?
what is black “henna”
Black “henna” may or may not have any real henna in the mixture. It is a coal tar derivative that contains PPD (para-Phenylenediamine) and is very toxic and dangerous. It’s illegal to use on skin in the United States.
Once sensitized to PPD, people may experience allergic skin reactions from the use of any hair dyes containing PPD. Cross reactions to other hair dyes, textile dyes, local anesthetics, and rubber chemicals can occur for the rest of their lives. ¹
Black “henna” can cause organ failure and death. ²
Scar from black henna.
1. Groot, Anton C. “Side effect of henna and semi-permanent ‘black henna’ tattoos: a full review.” Contact Dermatitus, 69, 1-25. 2013.
2. Sik, G. “Fatal paraphenylenediamine poisoning due to black henna.” Turk J Pediatr. 58 (3): (2016) 301-304.
How do you know if an artist is using black henna?
Is the artist using a black dye that might hurt you?
Most PPD “Black Henna” slingers do not know or lie about what's in their body art product. You often will NOT get a straight answer just by asking. You will have to look at what they’re using and see for yourself. Here’s how to tell if they’re using dangerous PPD black dye or safe natural henna:
PPD black dye leaves a black stain that stays black.
Ask to see the product on the artist’s arm, leg or torso. If it’s a black stain that lasts more than a few days, it is probably PPD black dye. Paste with PPD black dye in it is jet black.
Ask the artist how long you should leave it on.
If an artist tells you to take the paste off in less than an hour, and that the stain will be BLACK, the artist is probably using PPD. That’s the only black dye that works that fast on skin.
Ask the artist what color the stain will be when the paste comes off.
If the artist tells you the stain will be BLACK when the paste comes off and that it will stay black, it’s probably PPD-based black dye.
Ask them how long the stain will last.
PPD “Black Henna” stains typically last more than a week and stay black or fade to purplish dark brown.
Don’t confuse JAGUA with BLACK “henna”
Jagua is a South American fruit that leaves a bluish black stain on skin. Though it has a higher incidence of reactions than henna, it is generally very well tolerated by most people. Black henna is meant to be used on hair and can cause permanent damage if used on skin.
To add to the confusion, some henna artists call jagua “black henna”. Jagua IS NOT black henna. It’s true that jagua leaves a bluish black stain and sometimes it can be jet black, however, there are some key differences.
Jagua will take 2-3 days to reach peak darkness, whereas black henna will reach peak darkness within a few hours.
Jagua, like henna, will have variation on the body that is determined by skin thickness. Black henna will stain the same jet black color everywhere on the body, skin thickness does not matter.
Read more about authentic henna and jagua here on our FAQ Page.
Recognize and choose safe, authentic henna body art
Henna is a green plant, not a black coal tar extract
Ask your henna artist if they made their paste or if they know and/or trust the person that made it.
Most henna artists using authentic henna know what’s in their paste and will proudly tell you what’s in it.
Safe, natural, traditional henna paste is made of ground henna leaves, lemon juice or water, pure essential oils, and sugar. Henna paste has an earthy fragrance and will be some color of green or brown. Natural henna paste is NEVER jet black.
Henna leaves an orange stain that darkens to red brown or dark brown.
Ask to see the stains on the artist’s hands, arm, or leg or torso. If you see some color in the range of bricks, ranging from pumpkin, red, burgundy, chocolate, to coffee color, they are probably using safe, traditional henna.
Ask the artist how long you should leave it on.
Traditional henna mixes take more than an hour to stain the skin well. The artist will often tell you to leave the paste on as long as possible.
Ask the artist what color the stain will be when the paste comes off.
When authentic henna paste comes off, the stain will be orange or reddish brown, and then it will get darker.
Ask the artist how long the stain will last.
Henna stains last between a few days and a few weeks and fade to tan or orange.
Do not use black “henna”
Allergic reactions to PPD may occur within 1 to 14 days following contact with skin. Reactions usually occur where the product was applied, and may include:
redness
rashes
itching
blisters
swelling
pain
**If you develop any of the above or following symptoms, consult your physician right away!!**
Serious reactions can include:
hives (swollen, pale red bumps on the skin)
dizziness
fainting
stomach pain and cramping
Anaphylaxis is an example of a severe allergic reaction to PPD. It causes your body's airways to tighten. This type of allergic reaction occurs quickly and may be life-threatening.